There are some places that seem to strike a perfect balance between elegance and ease, and Biarritz is one of them. Set along France’s Atlantic coast, the former seaside resort has a distinctly different rhythm from the glamour of the Côte d’Azur—more relaxed, a little windswept, and deeply influenced by its Basque roots.
We spent three nights in Biarritz this summer, which gave us plenty of time to get a feel for the city, with one of our days spent across the border in San Sebastián. Between long lunches, market oysters, coastal walks and plenty of ice cream stops, we quickly settled into the easy rhythm of the French Basque coast.
I could easily spend a full week here next time—not because you need that long to see Biarritz, but because it feels like the kind of place where you want to slow down and settle in. And with more time, I’d use Biarritz as a base to explore more of the surrounding Basque towns and coastline.
We took the train from Bordeaux to Biarritz, and continued by train from Biarritz to Paris after our stay. Both journeys were incredibly easy, which is one of the things I loved about travelling through this part of France.
And unless you’re planning to explore beyond Biarritz and do a bit of town-hopping along the Basque coast, you really don’t need a car. Biarritz is compact and very walkable, and we found it easy to get around without one. For us, being able to arrive by train, walk everywhere and then simply hop back on the train to Paris made the trip feel wonderfully uncomplicated.
We stayed at Hôtel Saint-Julien, a charming boutique hotel housed in a 19th-century Basque home right in the centre of Biarritz. It has much more of a small B&B feel than a traditional hotel—simple, unfussy and intimate, without a lot of the bells and whistles of a larger luxury property.
What it does have is exactly what we needed for this trip: a great central location, clean and comfortable rooms, friendly staff and a relaxed atmosphere. We could walk everywhere, from the market and restaurants to the beaches, which made having a car completely unnecessary.
I also loved the little touches, like filtered water available on tap at the hotel. It felt thoughtful and practical without being overly precious. For us, Saint-Julien was a great base for exploring Biarritz. If you’re looking for a boutique stay with character and location rather than a full-service luxury experience, I would definitely consider it.
Other hotels to consider
Availability was fairly limited when I booked our dates, so I ended up choosing Saint-Julien. A few other Biarritz hotels I’d have on my list are Maison Silhouette, which I love for its boutique feel and central location near Les Halles; Hôtel du Palais, for the grand, historic Biarritz experience; and Le Talaia, which my parents stayed at shortly after our trip and enjoyed.
If you’re looking for something more luxurious and traditional, Hôtel du Palais is the obvious choice, while Maison Silhouette feels more intimate and boutique. Le Talaia is a more contemporary option, with a rooftop pool and spa. If you feel so inclined to stay just outside of Biarritz, I found this incredible property, Maison Chiberta just one town over that I would absolutely stay a few nights at next time around.
Spend some time at the Grande Plage
Biarritz’s main beach feels very different from the beaches of the French Riviera. You won’t find the rows of polished beach clubs and loungers here—instead, the coastline feels a little wilder and more natural. Bring your beach bag, a towel and settle in for an afternoon of free entertainment courtesy of the surfers. Watching them come in with the Atlantic waves was half the fun.
Walk out to Le Rocher de la Vierge
One of Biarritz’s most iconic landmarks, this rocky outcrop stretches into the Atlantic and offers beautiful views back toward the coastline. We loved wandering along this part of the coast, where the landscape gets a little more dramatic and you can really appreciate the wildness of the Atlantic.
Wander down to the water
One of my favourite things about Biarritz was simply following the paths and ramps down toward the beaches and discovering little stretches of coastline along the way. There was something incredibly beautiful about seeing the Atlantic from these lower vantage points—the kind of place where you want to stop, take it all in and stay awhile.
Explore Les Halles
One of my favourite stops was the market. We went during the day, when there was also a little weekly market outside, so we could browse local vendors and pick up a few things along the way.
Watch the sunset at Etxola Bibi
We stopped here for sunset drinks and loved the laid-back atmosphere. It’s the kind of place where you can grab a drink, find a spot and simply watch the evening unfold.
Head to Olatua for another sunset
Olatua was another favourite. It’s incredibly relaxed—you can sit pretty much anywhere, even on the rocks with your glass in hand. We settled in and watched the sun go down, and it was one of those simple moments that ended up being a highlight of the trip.
Try your luck at the casino
One evening, Sergio and I went to the casino and played a little blackjack. It was a fun change of pace and an easy way to spend an evening after dinner.
Biarritz is a fun city to shop because you can easily go from French fashion to Basque food specialties to beautiful homewares, all within a fairly compact area.
For fashion, I popped into Sud Express, a French clothing brand with a relaxed, polished aesthetic. And of course, you can’t really talk about shopping in Biarritz without mentioning the iconic Chanel boutique. Gabrielle Chanel spent time in Biarritz and opened her first couture house here in 1915, so the connection between the city and the house runs much deeper than simply having a beautiful boutique on the shopping streets. I also wandered through the small Galeries Lafayette in the centre of town. It’s not a destination department store by any means, but it’s worth a quick browse if you’re already in the area.
For something delicious to bring home, make some time for the specialty food shops. Maison Arostéguy is a Biarritz institution and the kind of place where you could happily spend far too much time browsing. Think Basque spices and condiments, olive oils, tinned goods, preserves, cheeses, wines and all sorts of beautifully packaged pantry finds. I also loved Accoceberry, where we picked up pâté. The selection is incredible, with Basque charcuterie, pâtés, preserves, prepared specialties and plenty of regional products to take home. Their pâté with Espelette pepper is exactly the sort of thing I mean—simple, very French and a great souvenir if you’re heading home with room in your suitcase.
And then there is the chocolate. Biarritz has a serious chocolate tradition, so leave some room in your suitcase. A few of the classic names to look for are Maison Henriet and Miremont, all good stops for chocolates, caramels, macarons and other Basque sweets. We also brought home chocolates and ice cream from Puyodebat, which I absolutely loved.
For the home, I noticed several beautiful interiors shops as we wandered around the city. Gazel Décorateurs and Magasin Central were two that particularly caught my eye, with a curated mix of furniture and decorative pieces. If you love interiors, I’d definitely keep an eye out for these smaller independent shops—you never know what you’ll find.
Biarritz is the kind of place where eating becomes part of the rhythm of the day—coffee in the morning, oysters at the market, long lunches, tapas-style plates and sunset drinks. We ate really well during our three nights, and these were some of our favourite stops.
Start the morning at Café Loky. We went here for coffee each morning and loved it. They do great espresso and filtered coffee, as well as yogurt bowls if you want something a little more substantial to start the day. It quickly became our morning ritual.
For a casual lunch, Nelly’s Burgerz. Their smash burgers were delicious and made for an easy, satisfying lunch when we wanted something a little more casual.
La Petite Plage at Le Talaia is worth going for the setting alone. Perched on the rooftop of the hotel with beautiful ocean views, it’s the Biarritz outpost of the restaurant that originated in Saint-Tropez, with Éric Frechon behind the menu. It has that relaxed, glamorous holiday feeling that makes you want to linger over lunch or dinner.
Chéri Bibi was another favourite. The menu is made up of delicious tapas-style plates with a strong Basque influence, so it’s perfect for ordering a few things and sharing. We loved it.
De Puta Madre à la Villa Magnan was one of the most beautiful dining experiences I’ve had in a long time. The restaurant is tucked into the grounds of Villa Magnan, where dinner takes place in a gorgeous garden setting around communal tables. The experience feels incredibly personal—the chefs come out and talk to you, the food is centred around seasonal local produce, and the whole evening has the feeling of being invited into someone’s beautiful home for dinner. Rather than choosing individual dishes, you share what comes to the table, which makes the whole experience feel wonderfully relaxed and communal. It was gorgeous from beginning to end, and if you do one special dinner in Biarritz, I would make it this one. Reservations are required.
Frenchie was a no-brainer for me. I already love Frenchie in Paris.
And then there is Les Halles. We went during the day and ended up sitting down for oysters and wine—six oysters and a glass of wine for just €9 at L’écaillerie. Honestly, it was one of those very French holiday moments that you hope to stumble upon.
For something sweet, head to Maison Dezamy. I had the pistachio ice cream and it was delicious. We also brought home chocolates and ice cream from Puyodebat, which I loved, so I’d definitely leave room in your suitcase for a few Basque sweets.
If you have an extra day while you’re in Biarritz, I highly recommend taking the train across the border to San Sebastián. It makes for an incredibly easy day trip and gives you a completely different feel from the French Basque coast.
We took the train from Biarritz to Hendaye, where you can easily connect to the little Euskotren into San Sebastián. The journey is straightforward, and after an hour you arrive right in the city. You don’t need a car at all.
The main reason to go, of course, is to eat. San Sebastián is famous for its pintxos, and the best way to experience the city is to wander from bar to bar, ordering a few small plates and a drink at each stop. Some of the names I had saved for our trip were Antonio Bar, Ganbara, La Cuchara de San Telmo, Borda Berri, Gerald’s Bar, Bar Nestor and La Viña, famous for its Basque burnt cheesecake.
Make time for Monte Igueldo, too. The views over San Sebastián and the coastline are beautiful, and it gives you a chance to see the city from above before heading back into the old town.
For me, the best part of doing San Sebastián as a day trip was the contrast. You get to leave Biarritz in the morning, spend the day eating pintxos and wandering the streets of San Sebastián, and be back on the French side of the border by evening. It’s an easy addition to a Biarritz trip and one I would absolutely do again.
Biarritz ended up being one of those places I didn’t quite expect to love as much as I did. It has the beauty and sophistication of a French seaside town, but without feeling overly polished or precious. There’s something wonderfully easy about it—the Atlantic air, the surfers, the markets, the long lunches and the feeling that you can spend an entire afternoon doing very little at all.
If you’re looking for somewhere that feels effortlessly French, a little wild around the edges, and very easy to fall into, Biarritz is absolutely worth putting on your list.
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